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Hands Down, Fork Reigns
All that said, I can't stop eating at Fork, in San Anselmo. Tucked in a row of quaint store fronts just near the "hub," Fork is somewhat hidden. Part of me wants to keep it that way. A bigger part of me wants to help assure the shifting economy won't drive down Fork's business.
My most recent visit, on a quiet Thursday evening, was started with a glass of complimentary Prosecco, offered by owners Charles Low and Oliver Knill. I was dining with a guest from LA . Two serious foodies, we needed time to choose our selections of 3, 4 or 5 plates - a perfect way to sample the array of expertly prepared dishes featuring locally sourced, seasonal foods.
Rarely impressed by soups, twice now I've been blown away by chef Nathan Lockwood's concoctions. This time, an asparagus and green garlic soup with truffled white asparagus salad and Meyer lemon cream got my eyes rolling to the back of my head. Mmmm.
Next, a papardelle in parmesan brodo, with mouth watering tiny meatballs, and squid ink tagliatelle, with cuttlefish, chili oil, lemon and mint, kept the meal's momentum. The smoky tasting cuttlefish was perfectly resistant on the tongue, with the chili oil lending just enough heat..unbelievable.
Chef Lockwood sent out a new menu item, Veal porcini ravioli in sugo with a preserved lemon vinaigrette. Everything in this dish was in balance. We looked like two zombies as we sipped our Seghesio Zin and wordlessly concurred, we were in heaven.
My dining partner and I couldn't decide who had the better third course, his breast of Grimaud Farms Duck with rainbow chard, just-in fava beans, and beautifully bright rhubarb. (Even the crispy bread pudding, on which the duck rested, was outstanding.) I'd had duck there before, so ventured on to the braised oxtail, which was the most tender oxtail I've encountered. To be honest, I'm not sure how the accompanying baby vegetables agrodolce and blood orange gremolata were, solo. The meat in my mouth had me too distracted.
Dessert was lovely. A vanilla semifreddo with dark chocolate, toasted almonds, and rum zabaglione. Chef Lockwood came out and joined us for a spell, and said said something about wanting to do more with the desserts, once he gets a new freezer online. We had no complaints.
Our entire meal, came up to less than we expected. A fairly priced wine list and more than reasonable prices for this brilliantly prepared food made us happy to pay our tab, of less than $150.
The only! downside on one visit, was a server who didn't seem to know food very well - alas, recruiting for expert serving staff is probably not easy. The food and wine helped me overlook this.
So go, eat there! Just tell them the Maringuide sent you, and to save a table for me when I return!